Finding the Right Balance Between Formal Rules and Personal Style
By Shohreh Bayat, International Arbiter
Introduction
Crafting a definitive set of dress code rules is challenging. However, it’s easy to see flaws in poorly conceived regulations. Clothing is a powerful form of personal expression, often reflecting individual beliefs, values, cultural background, and identity. This inherent connection to identity explains why chess players often push back against rigid and inflexible dress codes.
Chess: A Unique Sport? Rethinking the Need for Dress Codes
Chess is fundamentally a mental sport, setting it apart from physical disciplines. This distinction raises a key question: Does chess even require a dress code?
While comparisons to other sports might be more relevant in team competitions, the concept of a dress code in chess events can still be seen as important for maintaining a level of professionalism.
Diversity and Inclusion: Key Principles for Dress Code Evolution
The guiding principles for any dress code discussion should be “diversity” and “inclusion.”
- Diversity means recognizing, respecting, and celebrating the differences among individuals. A diverse environment, enriched by varied backgrounds and perspectives, fosters innovation and creativity.
- Inclusion ensures everyone feels welcome and valued. Achieving true inclusion requires us to be aware of our unconscious biases and actively manage them.
Grandmaster Pontus Carlsson highlighted an important point: specifying a single color like “dark blue” in FIDE dress codes can be problematic as it doesn’t adequately consider the spectrum of skin tones.
Why Dress Codes Spark Controversy in Chess?
Developing effective dress code regulations begins with understanding the chess community itself. Chess is a global game, uniting players from diverse cultures and backgrounds, each with unique expectations and norms. What is considered appropriate in one culture may be perceived very differently in another.
Even seemingly minor dress code stipulations can be misinterpreted and seen as restricting personal expression. For individuals who have experienced mandatory dress requirements, such as headscarves, these issues can be deeply sensitive. Feeling misrepresented can be akin to losing a part of one’s identity.
Team Events and Dress Codes: Fostering Unity
In team events, where players represent a country or club, coordinated attire can significantly enhance team unity. Uniforms not only boost team spirit but also contribute to a more polished overall image for the event. However, these uniforms should be designed with flexibility to accommodate cultural variations and individual preferences, ensuring players feel both unified and respected.
Lessons from Recent Dress Code Incidents
Anna-Maja Kazarian’s Sneakers: Advocating for Fairness
At the 2023 FIDE Women’s World Rapid and Blitz Championship in Samarkand, Anna-Maja Kazarian, a respected Woman International Master from the Netherlands, was fined €100 for wearing “Burberry sneakers.” She voiced her objection to FIDE’s decision on social media. The following day, she notably appeared in high heels. Whether a deliberate statement or a forced reaction, her choice prompted reflection: Are high heels inherently more suitable for a chess tournament than sneakers? This incident underscores the need for clearer and more equitable dress code guidelines. It seems counterintuitive to be penalized for wearing athletic shoes in a sport – unless, of course, chess is not considered a sport.
Magnus Carlsen’s Jeans: Challenging Excessive Regulation
During the 2024 World Rapid & Blitz Chess Championship in New York, Magnus Carlsen was fined for wearing jeans, which were prohibited by the event’s dress code. He received a warning of disqualification if he didn’t change. Carlsen withdrew from the event after being barred from a round. He explained he was willing to change the next day, not realizing the rule applied immediately, but the immediate demand became a matter of principle for him.
Zhu Jiner’s Dress Code Issue: When Rules Disrupt Performance
At the 2024 Women’s World Blitz Chess Championship in New York, Grandmaster Zhu Jiner, the previous year’s bronze medalist, faced an unexpected dress code problem. Prior to a semi-final match against Grandmaster R. Vaishali, a FIDE official informed her that her white laceless winter boots violated regulations, incurring a $200 per game fine. She expressed on social media how this incident significantly distracted her. Adding to the surprise, she had worn the same boots throughout the Rapid section without any prior issue. Zhu argued that she was adhering to the official dress code policy and that “arbitrary decisions based on personal discretion” negatively impacted her performance and tournament outcome. Ultimately, Zhu appealed the fine, and the Appeals Committee overturned it, replacing the fine with a warning.
The Olympiads: Celebrating Unity and Tradition
The Chess Olympiad serves as an excellent example of team events where players proudly wear national uniforms. The flexible approach adopted at these events has ensured smooth tournament operations. Notably, at the 2024 World Chess Olympiad in Budapest, Hungary, new federations like Vanuatu garnered positive attention by showcasing their unique traditional attire.
